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Traditional Lead Climbing

In traditional lead climbing, the first climber places artificial anchoring devices to provide protection en route. Trad routes most often follow cracks that allow a more secure placement of anchors. The lead climber carries an assortment of devices on a sling or harness gear loops. Some trad routes also have bolts incorporated into the terrain.

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Once the leader reaches the top of the route or pitch (a pitch is the distance between two belay points or one rope length), a belay anchor is built and the leader then belays his or her partner, known as the second, who recovers the protection placed by the leader on the route.

Upon completion of the first route or pitch, the climbers can choose to continue climbing if the rock face has multiple pitches (that is, more than one rope length). They may also choose to descend by walking down if a path is available or belay to the ground.

The big stone of western North Carolina is one of the preferred locations in the Southeast for trad climbing. Looking Glass Rock, Table Rock Linville Gorge, and the big walls of Whitesides Mountain offer many classic lines.

California has some outstanding trad climbing, including Joshua Tree National Park, with thousands of routes rated for the beginner up to the
advanced climber. Yosemite National Park is one of the world’s most famous rock-climbing areas with big walls soaring hundreds of feet and trad routes that are more appropriate for intermediate climbers.

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